Location: Steile Tuin Park Sonsbeek
Colour is a way of expressing who we are, and it can change the way we feel. It is the first thing we see when we look at a rail of clothes and we often think we need to buy something new because a particular colour is ‘in fashion’.
Although nature has a limitless range of colours, most of our textiles are dyed using synthetic AZO dyes, many of which are carcinogenic and are banned in the EU. But the use of chemicals and the treatment of wastewater is unregulated in many of the countries where textiles are produced, resulting in toxic rivers and high levels of cancer among the workers and their communities. A lack of transparency makes it impossible to know what is in our clothes, or even trust the ingredients on the care labels.
In the right hands, both fibres and dye plants can be grown in ways that give back to the soil rather than leaving it depleted. Natural dyes don’t create a solution on their own, however. Mordants needed to fix colour and stop it from fading can also be problematic, while waste-water still needs to be treated responsibly. There are many other solutions being developed to enable the large-scale colouring of textiles, including closed loop processes, bacteria, seaweed, and carbon dioxide instead of water.
The Recovery Garden is a space for reconnecting our clothes with nature. Here you can slow down, experience the healing act of planting a seed and watching it grow. You can enjoy the alchemy of turning flowers, herbs, and foraged leaves into colours to make natural dyes for textiles.
Hul le Kes
Hul le Kes has been established by Sjaak Hullekes and Sebastiaan Kramer and is based in Arnhem, the Netherlands. Sjaak and Sebastiaan both graduated in 2005 from ArtEZ University for Arts and Design Arnhem, and have been working together ever since. Sjaak Hullekes grew up on an island in the Netherlands. This quiet and peaceful setting is the main inspiration for his work.
Hul le Kes garments inspired by artists, country life and artisans’ workwear, are made to become even more beautiful by wearing them. By the time the wearer thinks the garment could use a new life the item can be returned to the Hul le Kes atelier. Items, or parts of it, will be reused and made into new garments. It is the start of a never ending life cycle, a life cycle full of stories, changes and character.
The Recovery Garden is an extension of the Hul le Kes Recovery Studio. It’s a place that aims to recover people as well as textiles. The demands of near perfection that our society demands of people and textiles are detrimental to its surroundings. In fashion it is a system that creates waste, overproduction and pollution. In people it is a cause for social exclusion, feelings of inadequacy, burnouts and depression. The Hul le Kes Recovery Studio is for people who need a slower, safer space. A place to develop oneselves and get back in contact with other people. It’s Hul le Kes’ example that it is possible to have a system without competition or exploitation.
Recovery Garden Workshop Hul le Kes
During this workshop Hul le Kes will tell you about dyeing processes and teach you about the Hul le Kes way of natural dyeing. Why is natural dyeing so interesting? What are its disadvantages? And how does it differ from chemical dyeing? Dyeing with plants has its own challenges, Hul le Kes will give you an introduction about these challenges and will change your perspective on color. At the end of this workshop you know about a few different kinds of plant-dyeing techniques for textiles and you have dyed your own piece of clothing.
Bring for this workshop:
-1 or 2 of your own garments, light in color (preferably white). The garment should be made from a natural, plant based, material such as cotton or linen. (Do not bring a garment made of animal-derived materials, this asks for a different kind of dyeing process. Polyester and nylon clothes will not absorb the pigments of plant dyes. Please pay attention to the material of your garment).
-your own snack/food
Recovery Garden Workshop Hul le Kes - €2,50 / student free admission
3 June 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
11 June 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
18 June 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
25 June 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
2 July 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
9 July 12:00-15:00, Book your ticket
Recovery Garden Workshop Hul le Kes - kids
Hul le Kes will go on a treasure hunt with the children at the Recovery Garden and Park Sonsbeek; looking for the best things to dye with. During this workshop Hul le Kes will tell about dyeing textiles with plants. How can you do that? Every child can bring his/her own piece of clothing to dye and decorate with plants. A fun, creative and nice way to bring your old piece of clothing back to life.
Bring for this workshop:
-1 of your own garments, light in color (preferably white). The garment should be made from a natural, plant based, material such as cotton or linen. (Do not bring a garment made of animal-derived materials, this asks for a different kind of dyeing process. Polyester and nylon clothes will not absorb the pigments of plant dyes. Please pay attention to the material of your garment).
-your own snack
From June 4, Hul le Kes will open a pop-up store in the middle of the city center, Wezenstraat 5 (1st floor) during the State of Fashion Biennale. More information and opening hours can be found here.
Farm-to-Fashion: A wealth of colour, powered by nature.
Textiles and clothing should not be at the expense of people and the planet. The sector has caused a lot of damage, but can also contribute to its recovery and restoration. We urgently need to invest in the development of a wider range and variety of biodegradable materials, as an alternative to harmful synthetic textiles. In addition, investments must also be made in harmless, biological dyes and dyeing methods.
Stichting Fibershed Nederland develops regional fiber systems that contribute to healthy soils, biodiversity and carbon-capture. As a thought leadership network and advocacy organisation focusing on cross industry collaboration, the non-profit is on a mission to mobilise and guide the fashion industry to (re)build and strengthen local textile supply chains on social, circular and regenerative values.
Fibershed is committed to increasing the supply and variety in natural fibers and the local production of high-quality and biodegradable textiles and clothing. We focus on four fiber groups, which eventually go back into the earth as food and contribute to healthy soil, biodiversity and maximum carbon dioxide absorption.
During the The State of Fashion Biennale 2022 Fibershed invites you to discover how innovative companies and pioneers develop new methods for the natural colouring of textiles based on old techniques and novel innovations.
Using examples from the international Fibershed network, we provide an insight into what is already possible and we show how researchers, craftsmen and companies invest in natural dye solutions that not only provide a wealth of colours, but also contribute to nature restoration and biodiversity.
Oshadi means ‘essence of nature’ or ‘healing plant’ in Sanskrit. The seed-to-sew project began as a womenswear label, founded by Nishanth Chopra in 2016. His desire to respect and regenerate the Earth has since led Oshadi through every process that goes into creating clothing, from printing and dyeing to weaving and spinning, and eventually back to the soil.
Chopra is cultivating a new 'seed-to-sew' fashion system – one rooted in ancient Indian agricultural practices and artisan heritage, with a 200-acre regenerative cotton farm at its heart. His entire approach is built on action, not words. The Oshadi system tackles everything from pollution to treating people with respect and dignity. Oshadi shares knowledge with brands and designers whose values align with their simple ethos: to give back more than they take.
Oshadi founder Nishanth Chopra and master block printer Shyam Babu will be hosting a series of workshops in the Recovery Garden on June 4-5 showing the ancient craft of block printing and discussing the process of natural dyeing from plant to print.